Samstag, 12. Juli 2008

黄山

A follow up on the last post. Went to the hairdresser recently to get a last haircut before going home. Costs only 2 Euros and includes washing (twice - before and after). Pay a little extra and you get an ad-hoc massage at the shoulders. It must be terrible to work in a place like this. My hairdresser from Anhui works 60 hours a week, every day from 10 to 10. His salary is meager, as you can guess.



Another tough job is working on mount huangshan. This is where I went two days ago. A beautiful place, and very famous - the mekka of the Chinese. It is said, every Chinese must ascend this mountain once in his or her lifetime. And if you are too old, to fat or too weak to climb the steep stairs, just rent those carriers who will take you up on a stretcher.

Sonntag, 6. Juli 2008

马萨吉 (Masaji)



My school is situated in a former village, now suburb of Shanghai. It's nice and quiet there, the streets lined with trees, houses at max 2 stories high, foodstalls, and massage places. Lots of them, and, as common in China, they do not only offer massage. In fact, it's apparently all up to the price - the more you pay, the more you get.



I have no 'inside' experience with any this (well, full disclosure, I took an ordinary massage once in Beijing) but these places are anywhere and people (mostly men, that is) openly talk about them. It seems to be a big part of everyday life. In fact, a friend told me once, that in a Chinese city the local government started cracking down on prostitution once, only to find out that a major part of their tax revenue came from prostitutes - so they eventually withdrew for fear of cutting their funding.



One reason for why there are so many prostitutes is, of course, that these women are not locals, but, in a way just like construction workers in the major cities, migrant workers, trying to survive. They are the 'supply-side' for the demand of many newly rich Chinese, being able to afford such services, in a culture that increasingly is becoming sexual. The tabloids, the women's magazines, the Western ideal of beauty (i.e. being sexy), the clubs and bars, they all are part of the whole-sale transformation of Chinese culture from conservative to consumptive. The demand is growing.

In the interstices of this process Westerners can find odd phenomena. For instance, the abundant sex-shops euphemistically often call themselves 'stores dedicated to men's health' because, officially, they are prohibited. And, be sure, you won't just get traditional tiger-testicles in there. Another oddity is the absence of a clear separation between beauty service (be it massage, or just a haircut) and plain sex. In many places there are no clear boundaries between being a hairstylist or a masseuse, and a prostitute (I mention hairstylist, because in some cities hairdressing places are infamous for being secret brothels - my hairdresser is not though, I am sure). I hear, in fancier massage places, 100 kuai (10 Euros) for a massage by a guy, 200 for a massage by a girl, 300 for an oil massage, 400 for an oil massage with her 'giving you the hand', and 500 for, well, the whole deal. In Europe we have a legal as well as a strong moral threshold defining which service dedicated to the customer's body is fine, and which one is not. That threshold is not (yet) distinct here in China. And so, all people need to do to set up a brothel is to dress it up as a massage place - ensconcing it with an air of legality.

Samstag, 5. Juli 2008

Montag, 30. Juni 2008

保险

Health insurance. Of course I have one here. I pay my bills and get refunded back home - unless I lose my receipts. For most Chinese, however, health insurance, insurance in general, is just taking of. It is big business now, as I was reassured by someone from my soccer team working with Allianz in China. Eventhough there are painstaking obstacles (government officials, partners jumping the boat just before the deal and what not), the investment appears to be worth the hassle. The market is gigantic, and only part of it (major cities, the Eastern part of China) has been explored. Longterm thinking and the reduction of risk / maximization of security are slowly making inroads into people' minds, and their monthly paychecks. No wonder, since these paychecks are becoming ever voluminous.

Health insurance is naturally of main concern in China. Just consider the high number of traffic accidents alone. (Reminds me of one of my last days going to work - the bus slows down, people stare out of the window, there, in the rain, lies an old man on the street, just next to a minivan, blood trickling from his bald head and mingling with the water streaming down the street- an uncanny sight, with no one helping). Not everyone can afford health insurance in China. In fact, the Shanghai perspective is not representive for the country as a whole. Here people are relatively wealthy and enjoy a lot privileges for holding a Shanghai resident permit (户口). I suspect, most of them have health insurance (which is relatively cheap, ten Euros a month or so, at most). People from more rural and less 'advanced' regions are less fortunate. They are especially in trouble when working in Shanghai as the infamous 'migrant workers'. The soaring prices and their still meager paychecks force them to cut down costs. So, it's food against chances of the body.

The teachers at my school(just as the cleaning lady at my home) all have that (non-)status. They work here, but they all come from Anhui Province, north of Shanghai, needing to rent an appartment in Shanghai. They are not Shanghai residents and they work on the lower tier of the 'work-chain'. Since my school is not a normal public school but a school for kids of migrant workers, the teachers are not public officials, they have no insurance. And likely none to purchase themselves, no wonder with a monthly salary of 80 Euros. This isn't much because prices in Shanghai in many areas already equal those of European cities. They even overtake some cities such as Berlin in the rental and purchase of real estate.

There are plenty of people having no health insurance in China. And here is what happened. A teacher of my school got sick. Apparently a bleeder, a condition dangerous but normally not irresolvable, unless you lack insurance. This man had been sick for weeks. He could not go the hospital, he could not pay for it, his condition slowly deteriorating. His family, as all the teacher's families were in Anhui, the wife and two kids, all very poor, living with the parents of the wife. I know of this case, because the teachers organized a fundraising for the teacher, going around collecting money from kids and staff, I also chipped in. The wife came too, to pick him up and return with him to Anhui, perhaps getting him to a hospital there (again, Shanghai being too expensive). Speaking from my collegues demeanor when addressing this issue, it seemed a pretty helpless situation - he couldn't pay so he was bound to die. I don't know if, at this moment, he is still alive. Needlees to say, his wife and small children would face extreme hardship with him, the sole breadwinner, gone. It's hard to imagine, and it was also impressive and strange how the Chinese around me handled this situation with resolve and yet also going about business as usual (in a "well, what can you do"-manner), I assume accepting the higher authority of poverty over matters of life and death. This felt strange and utterly sad coming from a country with extensive health insurance coverage. I am an advocate of universal coverage, now more than ever.

Sonntag, 29. Juni 2008

put on hold

Got some time on my hands to reflect on these last months. Involuntarily. Abandoned Travel plans due to an injury attained during a tackle, playing soccer of course. At least I could experience the Chinese health system up close and in full swing, swinging at me. Went twice, already, to the doctor at the 上海交通大学医学院附属瑞金医院 (Remember, when you come to Shanghai)

A good rule, I am told, is not to go to the local district hospital, they may turn you down or let you wait forever. Go to some fancier central place, connected to the university at best. So here we were! My first time, the emergency room. The place felt and smelt a bit like on of these indoor swimming pools in dire need of renovation. It was all very simple. I went in, first to the information desk, then to the cashier (which would turn out to be the most important location of the whole place). They gave me a card - I, and my health history are henceforth registered with this particular hospital - upon payment of 1 Euro 40 Cents(Since I am not a Shanghai resident I cannot obtain a card that works in every hospital in town). Included was the first look at my foot by the doctor. So here I was, in front of the 骨科 (science of the bone) room, where one doctor (probably my age) handled all the evenings emergencies. He was not particularly attentive, to say the least. Send me right away to get an X-Ray, which I got in record time - 20 minutes I was back (on the way dropping once again by the cashier, another 14 Euro, gone). A quick glance apparently sufficed for a diagnosis, nothing broken, "just take it easy for a week". I was also asked if I believed in chinese medicine, and if I wanted some. Well, i believed my belief in pills of whatever kind (Chinese or Western) would aid recovery, so I bought this stuff, another 5 Euro.

So in all, 1.30 hours, 20 Euros later I had a take-home X-Ray and diagnosis and some pills - fair deal.

Unfortunately my foot didn't succumb to the diagnosis, but kept on bugging me. So I went a second time, in the morning, to the new section of the same hospital. Very fancy, brand new and 25 stories high. This time the information desk gave me a choice, 特别 or 普通 (special or general doctor). At the cashier I made that choice, going for the specialist. 10 Euros as opposed to, probably, 2 Euros. On the 14th floor the difference was already reflected in the waiting room. While hords of people were shuffling, sitting and moaning in front of the general doctors rooms (a bit like the subway station, or perhaps even that weird low-ceiling room of the Shanghai stock-exchange) my waiting room on the other side was almost deserted. Also, the seating arrangements were leather sofas, as opposed to those plastic benches in the proletarian section. Never got to treat my behind with them, however. After delivering my card to the nurse, my name immediately popped up on the screen next to one of the doctor's rooms. I went in to meet a very jovial old man who took his time involving me in some small talk (the higher price, however, did not include him being able to speak English). Afterwards he stared at my X-Rays for a long time, prescribed some medicine (inflammatory stuff - produced in Munic, thank god) and bid me farewell. It was certainly much more reassuring than the first visit, but then again, cost almost five times as much as the first doctor. Nice view from his office though.

Samstag, 28. Juni 2008

Blattgold

Some friends, former fellow combatants of 'Die Friedenswarte' editorial board, and me are now writing short pieces, squibs sort of, in german under the name Blattgold published with the journal Welttrends. Apart from the print edition, our texts can be found here. Currently we are working on a piece about the olympics.

Mittwoch, 18. Juni 2008

So this is Goodbye!



The schoolyear has ended, I have finished my work. It was a great time!

Samstag, 7. Juni 2008

Earthquake



Yes, I am donating as well. 100 Yuan (10 Euros) for the victims of the earthquake in Sichuan Province. What strikes me is the omnipresent imagery. On TV, on pictures, people all over the country drop money in a box. Almost as if they were casting the ballot. Their choice this time is only how much money to give. But it's perhaps the first nationwide and relatively self-organized choice in Chinese history.

Montag, 2. Juni 2008

More nonsense, and more honesty

The intelligent phone and the 'Propaganda Board' (which is actually just a message-board run by the housing management of the district I am living in)



Donnerstag, 29. Mai 2008

This is my class.



One of them at least. They are the smallest kids I teach, the most annoying but also the sweetest. Annoying because they know not yet about the authority of the teacher. If they want to play, they play, if they want to cry, they cry... They are like forces of nature, you must obey their dictates, you may steer a little, but you cannot control. This is, on the one hand, because there are 60 of them, crowded together in a room with bad air. On the other hand, this is because some of them don't even speak much Chinese yet. For example the little girl on the left lower corner. She has two states of being: Smiling and Sleeping. Speaking, however, is not one of them. She is really cute, but, I must say, her English leaves things to wish for. On the opposite end, (right corner, against the wall) we have one of the troublemakers of the class. The little punk likes to distract others, and is easily distracted. However, he is also very intelligent, instantly picking up English phrases and using them. In the end, I love all of these kids, they teach me a lot, perhaps more than what I get to teach them.

Freitag, 23. Mai 2008

Once again, everything is possible in China. You never know for sure, a definite "yes" may turn into a "no" just at the last moment, an "impossible" can contain a possibility. Long-term preparations aren't popular, everything is last minute. And, in contrast to Germany, everything gets cheaper the closer the final date. So with our train tickets to Beijing, so with my visa.

Picked up my passport last Thursday. In the end it wasnt as difficult to obtain as assumed (At first it seemed, in fact, impossible). Turned out easier to get than making an appointment with one of my former University teachers.

As a reminder that there are allways pockets of possibility and nonsense in China, even with (or perhaps because of?) harsh laws and an authoritarian government, take this sign, recently discovered in Beijing, in a restaurant close to Tiananmen.

Dienstag, 6. Mai 2008

New 3d game-console taking over China's youth



Nope, that's not what this is. If you think of Chinese medicine as ancient herbs served by an old women with a hunchback, think again. These kids are strengthening their eyesight by wearing these cutting-edge goggles for 45 minutes. Occasionally smoke will stream from the two black chimneys diffusing the scent of a buddhist temple during holidays (i.e. 500 incense-sticks). The kids are allowed to talk. One kid I got to know wanted to shake my hand, a foreigner is always good for a lot of attention, even among the temporarily blinded. Poor girl, she will never know what I look like. If you are interested, 30 sessions (the normal dose, as it turns out) cost 800 renminbi (80 Euro). Going for the eyes of an eagle.

Montag, 5. Mai 2008

星期天

Sunday is my holy day. And I realized it here. Since Thursday was off (1.May) and everyone wanted to have a three-day long vacation, the Sunday was promptly made a regular working day (liberating Friday from its fatal middle position). And this went for all state run facilities. With everything else (shopping malls, drugstores, bars) open anyways, the morning bus was just as crowded as usual. Sunday here is just another day. It felt strange, down to the bone. Of course, the idea of working on Sundays is nothing alien. But everyone else working too?.

Sonntag, 27. April 2008

德国


I see people wearing those jackets everyday. In fact, everything wearable is available here in the German black-red-golden, some pieces even featuring the German Eagle. For me, brought up with the kind of nationalism that consists of proudly avoiding any nationalistic symbolism, its a weird sight. It also makes me understand what a Jamaican in Germany feels, at the sight of people's t-shirts emblazoned with his country's colours and name (not to speak of a particular and still fictious political coalition). Most of all, these jackets attest to the innocence of symbols in other (here, Chinese) contexts. One can almost shed the idea of nationalism and simply acknowledge, black-red-golden actually looks cool.

Donnerstag, 17. April 2008

A1

Last weekend I was invited by Hendrik and LanLan to go to the Shanghai Circuit and watch an A1 Race. This is also the place, where F1 Races are being held. The A1 appears to be the new little brother of Formula 1. But it pursues it different strategy of securing a fan base. While the Formula 1 is all about racing teams of car companies (Ferrari, Mercedes), the A1 is a World Grand Prix of national teams. So there is an American, a French, a German team, and of course team China. We shall the see whether car racing will eventually become dominated by the same national sentiment that so accompanies other team sports. The Race was loud, it was fast, but it did not convert me to actually liking motorsports.

Dienstag, 15. April 2008

Olympischer Stress 2

Antje Vollmer hat in der Süddeutschen einen hervorragenden Artikel zur Tibetfrage geschrieben. Hier ein Auszug.

"Aber bevor die Lehren aus der voraussichtlichen Niederlage gezogen werden können, beginnen die westlichen Staaten und Gesellschaften bereits mit den Vorbereitungen eines neuen kalten Krieges: Es ist der mentale Krieg gegen das gerade zur Weltmacht aufsteigende China. Nachdem wir uns schon in einer ideologischen Konfrontation gegen die nicht gerade bevölkerungsarmen islamischen und arabischen Länder befinden, nachdem wir uns in eine zumindest diplomatische Dauerkonfrontation mit Russland hineinmanövriert haben, nun auch noch eine generelle Systemkonfrontation mit China? Jeder fünfte Mensch in der Welt ist ein Chinese oder eine Chinesin. Der Westen traut sich offensichtlich sehr viel zu!"

Hier der gesamte Text.

Donnerstag, 10. April 2008

DVD

There are certain freedoms here in China, not found in Europe anymore. One is to be able to go to the video-store and buy DVDs for 1 Euro a piece. I have mentioned earlier, this market of copying and distributing media is not centrally controlled by anyone, at least not yet. This is the reason why government censuring of a film or book is so ineffective in China.

However, this is about to change. Stores that sell copy-DVDs and CDs are becoming rare, the police is increasingly closing them down. This appears to happen against the backdrop of the demands of major firms and the WTO. Political reasons on the other hand, seem not to be involved.

It's too bad that this freedom of consumption is being curtailed. There will be less surprises in the future. Like when I went to the store 2 days ago. To my surprise, I found the Oscar-winning documentary "The Blood of Yangzhou District".
Brief synopsis:
"A year in the life of children in the remote villages of Anhui Province, China, who have lost their parents to AIDS. Traditional obligations to family and village collide with terror of the disease."

To be sure, this film is not what the government here would want people to watch.
In the store it can be found placed just next to 'Virgin Wars' ...

Dienstag, 8. April 2008

Olympischer Stress1

Vor dem Hintergrund der modernen Austattung öffentlicher Verkehrsmittel bildet das menschliche Chaos einen erfrischenden Kontrast. Im jedem Bus gibt es hier zwei Fernseher in denen ein spezielles tägliches Busprogramm läuft. Mit Nachrichten, Kultursendung und natürlich viel Werbung.

Letzte Woche sah ich dort wie in Frankreich die Fackelträger angegriffen wurden. Im Anschluss an diese Szenen wurden China-Fähnchen-haltende Franzosen interviewt. Keine Frage, empört waren die. Danach gab man Chinesen vor Ort die Möglichkeit im Interview ihre nationale Gesinnung unter Beweis zu stellen.

Im Bus hat es niemanden interessiert. Sowieso, in meinem Umfeld spricht man kaum über die Olympiade, die Spiele sind weit weg und haben nichts mit den Herausforderungen des alltäglichen Lebens in Shanghai zu tun. Was die Menschen sorgt sind eher die Inflation und rapide steigende Preise. Milch ist nun dreimal so teuer wir noch vor 2 Jahren. Steigen die Lebensmittelpreise, so werden auch zwangsläufig die Kosten für Arbeitskraft steigen. Betriebe werden sich nicht mehr so großzügige Zahlen von Angestellten leisten können, Arbeitslosigkeit wird explodieren. Vielleicht werden wir in China dann erleben, was dieser Tage in Haiti geschieht. Auch bei uns werden dann Produkte teurer werden. Wir werden dann aus dem Konsumtraum, den wir bisher wegen China träumen konnten, aufwachen. Keine Frage, neben der Umweltzerstörung sind die steigenden Lebenskosten die wahren Probleme hier in China, Probleme die auch den Rest der Welt betreffen. Der Westen Chinas, indes, ist weit weg.

Nur nicht in Europa. Dort badet man im Gutmenschentum. Wurden gewalttätige Proteste während des G8 noch verteufelt - es hieß, Gewalt sei kein legitimes Mittel des Protests - so regt sich kaum jemand über die Ereignisse in Paris auf. Stillschweigendes Einverständnis, insbesondere bei den Medien (z.Bsp. Süddeutsche Zeitung, Spiegel-Online), denn es geht ja um einen guten Zweck: Befreiung und Freiheit. Und so wird diskutiert, protestiert und eventuell sogar boykottiert.

Warum das nichts bringen wird? Hier 3 Gründe:

1. Die Chinesen haben dort ordentlich investiert, insbesondere in die Hauptstadt Lhasa. Mittlerweile leben und arbeiten in Tibet viele Chinesen, natürlich auch, weil die chinesische Regierung in der Vergangenheit entsprechende Anreize geboten hat. Man kann das entweder Kolonialisierung oder Entwicklungspolitik bezeichnen. Jedenfalls ist klar, das Geld, das Material, und vor allem die Menschen aus China werden nicht so einfach aus Tibet verschwinden, selbst wenn es die chinesische Regierung wollte.

2. China ist durch sein Wachstum ein selbstbewusster internationaler Akteur geworden. Mit Drohgebärden und Boykotten wird man China nicht beeindrucken können, dazu ist es zu spät. In der Tat, nicht Einsicht sondern Feindseligkeit wird man ernten. Häufig wird argumentiert, die Chinesen würden im Falle eines Boykotts ihr Gesicht verlieren und darum beleidigt reagieren (diese blöden Konfuzianer). Ich denke, wäre die USA heute Ausrichter der Spiele, wäre man in Amerika über Angriffe auf Fackelträger und Boykotte genauso sauer und würde weder Guantanamo auflösen, noch sich aus dem Irak zurückziehen.

3. Vor 50 sind Mao Zedongs Armeen ins Land marschiert. Das heißt, die Angliederung Tibets an China spielt eine wichtige Rolle im Gründungsgeschichte des modernen China. Die chinesische Regierung kann schon deshalb ihre Position hier nicht aufgeben, oder wenigstens relativieren, weil dies ihre historisch gewachsene Herrschaftslegitimation im Kern erschüttern würde. Was folgen würde ist klar, auch andere Minderheiten in China (beispielsweise die Uiguren im Nordwesten, würden ihre Unabhängigkeitsbestreben forcieren). Dann wäre ein Bürgerkrieg denkbar. Ein solcher Krieg, wäre aufgrund der gegenwärtigen Bedeutung Chinas auch schnell ein Weltkrieg.
Die chinesische Regierung wird sich in der Tibet-Frage nicht bewegen. Nicht nur weil sie nicht will, sondern auch, weil sie nicht kann. Man darf in Deutschland nicht den Fehler begehen die Verhältnisse der DDR mit denen von China heute zu vergleichen (ich glaube, dass das sehr häufig geschieht). In China hat die Zentralregierung relativ wenig Einfluss auf das tägliche Leben der Menschen. Zu groß ist das Land, zu viele Menschen, Sprachen und Kulturen gibt es. Hier herrscht extrem viel Bewegung, vieles völlig unkontrolliert. Das war schon immer so, und deshalb versuchten Chinas Herrscher immer vor allem eines: Einheit zu schaffen, wo eigentlich keine ist. Das immer mehr recht als schlecht funktioniert und auch die KP heute ist da nur begrenzt erfolgreich. Besonders wichtig für Einheitsbildung ist natürlich der Nationalismus. In gilt es zu stärken und zwar funktionell gebunden an die KP. Wie gesagt, das ist in China schwerer als man bei uns denkt (man hat Nationalismus bei uns schon zu sehr verinnerlicht). Ich erlebe die Chinesen als wenig nationalistisch. Man singt die Nationalhymne nicht, behängt sich nicht in den Nationalfarben, redet wenig über China und wenn dann eher in negativer Weise: Deutsche Autos gut, Chinesische Autos schlecht (Ganz im Gegensatz dazu die Vietnamesen, die natürlich weitaus homogener als die Chinesen sind und ihren Nationalismus auf einen Siegermythos begründen). Deshalb wird in den chinesischen Medien immer wieder das gleiche Nationalprogramm runtergeleiert und deshalb braucht China auch die Olympischen Spiele. Um die Chinesen in Shanghai, Kunming und Hongkong und sonstwo (außer Peking) daran zu erinnern, dass man eins ist unterm Himmel (meint: einer politischen Führung).

China wird Tibet nicht aufgeben. Das wissen auch die Organisationen, die für seine Freiheit eintreten. Vor allem wissen sie, dass jeder Protest zur Folge hat, dass das Leben der Menschen für die man anderswo protestiert nur noch beschwerlicher wird. Das ist schon seit Jahrzehnten so. Ihre Strategie ist gescheitert, denn das Hauptargument war und ist, dass man den Menschen im Land helfen will. Man muss daher fragen, warum protestieren diese Organisationen dann eigentlich noch?

Commutation 2

Forget to mention another Chinese habit I am becoming accustomed to. If you read a book or just go through your vocabulary-cards (as I am frequently doing, yeah!) your neighbour will stare at your reading material, no matter how boring. This is really strange, in a German bus one rarely dares even to glance into another person's book. Here it's like looking out of the window, normal stuff.

There is a solution as well. I just cough really heavily and people will immediately turn away (It's easy, i am sick anyways). In fact, they might even walk away. They are quite scared of catching the flu here. In fact, the people on the streets wearing masks over their mouths are not just people trying to stay healthy. Also people who are sick wear such protection in order to prevent the transfer of whatever they are having to others... There's Chinese responsibility for you.

Montag, 7. April 2008

Commutation

Every work-day I am spending about 1.30 hour commuting. With two buses, from home to Xinzhuang Subway-Station and on with another bus going all the way to the terminal stop, Ji Wang. The duration is quite regular for Shanghai, and, in fact, not even that spectacular for Berlin. However, 1.30 hours in a chinese bus is different from Berlin, because it may entail: finding no seat the entire way, reckless driving (and thus flying all over the place), and masses of people pushing and shoving each other around.

There is no mercy in public transportation here. It's a daily battle. Passengers entering do not wait for those exiting the vehicle. They simply charge in, no matter what. This often creates hilarious situations, where some become stuck at the door, not being able to get off in time. They have to try again at the next station. The pushing and pulling are almost like actual fighting, very physical situations, but also in a strange way very calm - there is no mercy, but also no hysteria.

The struggle for seats is most fierce. People always run for empty seats, screw the dignity. I have seen some throwing their bags on seats, when suddenly vacant, to minimize their disadvantage in distance. But then, a seat means peace, some sleep, and certainly no being pushed around.

My strategies to survive the time in my buses, when not getting a seat:

1. I am learning to sleep in all possible positions, even when standing (hanging on the upper handle).

2. I try to catch how much those having a seat pay fare. If it is less, they will get off sooner, so I am positioning myself close to them.

3. I am trying to get in the back of the bus. Here I am able to "cover" about 6 seats, which stastically raises the chance of snatching one. However, people getting off earlier rarely sit in the back, so this, on the other hand, works statistically against me.

4. Once a seat is located, my position is taken and the occupant appears to be leaving soon, I try not to stand directly next to the seat. Because if the person then gets up, I will have to step back and at that moment another person may slip into seat, from the side. So the best spot is slightly to the left.

Tricky stuff. I am getting better though.

Dienstag, 25. März 2008

红卫小学



Hongwei Xiaoxue is my workplace. Located in the suburbs of Shanghai, in Minhang district, it takes me about one hour and 30 minutes to get there.
The school is special in that its students are the children of migrant workers. Both of the parents have to work, so someone has to take care of their children. However, the children of migrant workers are usually not allowed to attend a school in a province other than their home province.


So this school is an experiment, and thus not only funded by the Chinese state but in fact primarily by foreign donors. Its equipment is nevertheless scarce, there is no heating, no air-condition, and the teacher's salary is very low compared to those of public school teachers here. The teachers, too, are not from Shanghai, but mostly from Anhui province (because that is where the school headmaster is from, as I am told).


There are around 60 kids per class. I am teaching different classes and grades. The youngest class has children of 4 to 5 years. All the children here are sweet, noisy and at times sleepy. When the class is over, they jump up and swarm at me shouting "zaijian, zaijian!" (Goodbye).

Impressions

On the street


In the bookstore


In the supermarket

Samstag, 22. März 2008

Home

This is where I live. Second row the third house from the right.
The map must be around 3-4 years old. There is much less wasteland around today, than on the picture.

福娃, 海宝

This blog has its Name for two reasons. First, every other name I could think of is already in use. Second, Haibao stands for the fact that I am in Shanghai, in contrast to being in Beijing. Haibao is the mascot of the Shanghai EXPO 2010 and, as I see it, just as present here as are the Olympic mascots Fuwa, if not more. Indeed, Shanghai is also China, and a different one at that.

"He May Be a God, but He’s No Politician"

Here, an insightful NY-Times article about, dare I say it, Western China...

Montag, 17. März 2008

同一个世界同一个梦想

Last Wednesday, me and Christoph went to our Chinese language class in Jing An. The weather was beautiful so we decided in favour of a detour, through the park. On our way, we met a bunch of teenagers wearing red caps, fired up to have people sign their large red banner. In good spirits they dared to engage us foreigners, showing us a large cardboard sign and asking for a signature. The sign read:
"Fighting!Beijing 2008"
Where we being tricked? Was this a wicked scheme designed to have us believe these innocent and cheery youngsters were supporting the games, while in fact staging some kind of disguised public protest?
I asked them. They were oblivious of the ambiguous nature of their cardboard poster. Of course, to say in English fighting smth. means to fight against" rather than for something (the latter of which, to our relieve, they where actually trying to express). Accompanied by frenzied laughter, quickly a "for" was inserted, the banner signed, and on it went, life in Shanghai.

南宁-北京

On the train-ride from Nanning to Beijing earlier this year I watched this AIDS commercial. It features Chinese superstars (Andy Lau, for example) educating us about AIDS, while singing and dancing. One of its messages is, among others things, that AIDS is not contractable by eating food. To my mind, directed against a growing fear of AIDS in China, this commercial aims to defuse rumors and hysteria keeping people from admitting being HIV-positive for fear of social exclusion. A fear which carries the risk of the clandestine and hence uncontrollable spread of the disease.

Mittwoch, 12. März 2008

丽水花挺

Was wie eine Straßenzeile in Holland aussieht, steht gleich bei mir in der Nachbarschaft. Das ganze ist leicht gespenstisch, weil noch unbewohnt. Tritt man ein, so steht man plötzlich in Italien.





Den Moment der Verwirrung (Piazza San Marco???) nutzt der Wachmann, um sich auf heranzustehlen und dann (überaus freundlich, man ist ja potentieller Käufer) zum Ausgang zu bitten.






Die gesamte Gegend (locker über 100.000 Leute) besteht primär aus sogenannten Gated Communities, Model-Wohnsiedlungen mit ner dicken Mauer drum und Wächtern. Ich wohne auch in sowas. Aber nicht falsch verstehen, das sind keine Baracken wie die Hochhaussiedlungen in Marzahn, sondern beste Luxusbehausungen; wobei jede Siedlung ihren eigenen Stil hat. Naja, eigens kopiert.

Fachwerkhäuser, Haciendas, Ami-Villen, alles da. Und schonmal dagewesen.





Bestes Beispiel, 上海康成(Shanghai Kangcheng) oder auch "Shanghai Cannes - The Sea Palace". Alles ganz Französisch, zwischen den Palmen steht sogar ein stattlicher Arc de Triomphe Klon... Cannes und Paris wunderbar vermengt, das kriegt man nur hier hin. Der größte Quatsch ist jedoch das dezente Meer auf dem Poster und der Name "Sea Palace". Das Meer ist weit weg. Das Poster ist, gelinde gesagt, irreführend. Bisher wird man jedoch hier für so was nicht verklagt. Es scheint auch niemanden zu stören. Und so wohne auch ich in einer "Coastal Riverside Villa", ohne Küste, ohne Fluss.


Naja, hübsch ist es dennoch. Hier die Rückseite meines Hauses, zum Sonnentuntergang.

足球

Bevor es heute zum Fussballtraining ging, habe ich mir in einem kleinen Imbiss noch eine köstliche Nudelsuppe mit Lammfleisch gegönnt. Beim Essen setzten sich dann plötzlich Chinesen mit DHL Uniformen an meinen Tisch. Die hatten gerade Essenspause. Ich habe mich mit einigen unterhalten, denn das DHL Logo ist mir ja nicht unbekannt. Und in der Tat, DHL ist ein Subunternehmen der Deutschen Post und hat ein Joint-Venture in Shanghai. Meine Essensnachbarn konnten dann auch sachgemäß auf Deutsch grüßen und zählen...

Gerade erreicht mich übrigens eine freudige Nachricht. Der Film, den Susanne und ich zum Geburtstag von Rossini in Peking gedreht haben, hat den zweiten Platz bei der Rossini Award-Verleihung gemacht.

Dienstag, 11. März 2008

家乐福 (Jialefu)

Oder auch 'Carrefour', ein französischer Supermarkt. Sucht man ausländische Importe in China, dann wird man bei Jialefu fündig. Meine Nutellavorliebe ließe sich also auch hier ausleben, wenn das Glas nicht 6 Euro kosten würde.

Das Problem mit Jialefu ist natürlich, fragt man hier nach "Carrefour", wird man den Laden nicht finden. Die Chinesische Sprache muss aufgrund ihrer Struktur (Monosyllabisch, Tonsprache, Schriftzeichen) fremde Wörter erst 'übersetzen'. Das heißt, phonetisch muss es dem Ursprungswort irgendwie ähneln und wenn möglich auch semantisch passen. So steht das 家 (Jia) für 'Zuhause', das 乐 (le) für 'genießen' und das 福 (fu) für 'Glück'. Also schon eine Einladung zum Shoppen, auch semantisch. "Jialefu" kennt hier jeder, indes 'Carrefour' (ich gebe zu, mit deutschem Akzent gesprochen) ist kein Begriff.

Weitere Beispiele für Transliterationen: amerikanische Politiker (hab ich hier gefunden):

Hillary Clinton 希拉里 (Xilali — sounds like She·la·lee)
Barack Obama: 奥巴马 (Aobama — sounds like Au·bah·muh)
John McCain: 麦肯 (Maiken — sounds like My·kin)
Mitt Romney: 罗姆尼 (Luomuni — sounds like Low·moo·nee)

Ich heiße in China übrigens 非利浦 (feilipu). Ist bekannt, weil die gleichnamige holländische Firma auch in China operiert.

Dienstag, 4. März 2008

Free

Hier diskutiert Rüdiger Wischbart die Zukunft des Buchs. Dadurch bin ich auf diesen Wired Magazine Artikel gestoßen. "Free! Why $0.00 Is the Future of Business" von Chris Anderson. Sehr lesenswert!

公园

Am Sonntag war die ganze Familie im Park, unweit von zuhause. Denn die Winterblumen blühten. Menschenmassen strömten dicht an den wunderschönen und fragilen Bäumchen vorbei, man nutzte jeden freien Blick um ein Bild zu schießen. Die farben Rot und Weiß dominierten. Wir haben auch Fotos davon, bald werde ich sie posten. Ich bin erstaunt wie grün Shanghai eigentlich ist. Immer gibt es irgendwo Bäume, oder gar einen Park / Garten. Von Balkonen ranken Pflanzen und wer ein Geschäft besitzt stellt ein Topf-Bäumchen davor, auf den Bürgersteig. Blumen und Pflanzen spielen hier eine große Bedeutung. Sobald eine bestimmte Baumart blüht, pilgert man in die Gärten. Viele wissen auch Geschichten über die einzelnen Blumen zu erzählen. Das ganze mutet fast religiös an. Mir gefällt es.